DAILY MAIL ONLINE
October 2010

Chomping on my ploughmans in the sunshine, overlooking glittering Lake Windermere, it is hard to imagine guests escaping through the hotel windows behind me as swirling waters inundated the building. But just a year ago, after particularly heavy rains, the grey-blue waters that now look so calm, took on a sinister life of their own, swelling above the shores to flood 900 properties, sweeping away bridges and killing local policeman Bill Barker. The Swan Hotel and Spa, positioned right on the shore of the lake, was hit particularly badly by the Cumbria floods, its 16th century skeleton and designer interior suddenly awash with muddy water. Not that you could imagine it now. After a £4m refurbishment, there's fresh Designers Guild wallpaper throughout and shabby chic Ralph Lauren sofas dotted about in front of log fireplaces. The foyer looks like something straight out of an interiors magazine. The rooms too have been upgraded, with bold florals on the walls, flatscreen TVs and stylish bathrooms that come with with a steam-resistant mirror (a personal favourite).

It took just six months for the family-owned hotel to be turned around and it reopened for the summer season, packed out with loyal guests, keen to return for a stay in the new and improved Swan.‘I think this place is a great symbol of how the area recovered from the flooding,’ says food and beverage manager Craig Hadfield, who helped in the aftermath.‘The hotel is quite a linchpin of the community, our success is intertwined with the success of other businesses, we have a good working relationship with nearby hotels and B&Bs and local farmers and microbreweries. We’re all glad to be working again.’

It is hard to fault the place. The drive up to it is like arriving at a storybook destination, complete with its own little stone bridge over the narrow part of the lake to the grand whitewashed building that dominates the shore. Once inside, friendly staff -who were kept on 70 per cent pay during the flood recovery – are happy to suggest walks and activities so we can stretch our legs after the long drive from England's south.  But keen for a little relaxation, we opt for a dip in the pool and a back, neck and shoulder massage.

The pool is certainly not for the shy, with many curious guests peering through the windows to the area from the foyer, but it’s a nice space and was popular with families during our stay. The actual spa is located one floor up from the pool and has all the usual treatments at surprisingly affordable prices. A 30-minute kneading to get rid of my motorway-induced knots cost £30 with longer treatments costing from £50. Of course, the hotel’s biggest selling point is its amazing location. Many of the rooms have lake views and the inn has an outdoor terrace right on the shores of Windermere.

Local walks are also in abundance, ranging from gentle strolls along the lakeshore to more adventurous hikes that can take hours to complete. My brother Chris and I choose a three-hour round trip to the highest point over the lake, a good amount of time for a well-overdue catch-up. Wandering first along a road, then through stunning hamlets and open countryside we then clambered up the rocky outcrop Post Knott to look out to sea, across the Lake District and down to Lancaster.

Despite a wrong turn on the way back, involving sharing some very narrow lanes with the traffic, we make it to the beautiful backroads full of pretty houses and are grateful to see the warm lights of the Swan Inn. The pub area of the hotel is the oldest part of the building and its low ceilings and carefully mismatched florals, along with old pew seats and low lighting, certainly make it a welcome escape from the elements.
Local ales such as Loweswater Gold, from a tiny microbrewery down the road, rub alongside cosy pub fare with a twist including Suet crust steak and kidney pie and Lancashire ‘crumbly’ cheese, white onion and leek hotpot. But with a reservation in the plush restaurant next door we refrain from the bar snacks. The hotel is relatively open-plan and the Swan Inn opens out into the River Restaurant which is defined as a separate area by a change in decor.

Light lilac walls, dove grey furnishings and an imposing stone fireplace give the cavernous room a soft feel and the quirky plate shapes and oversized wine glasses keep the look high-end. Chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche, port and red onion marmalade is my brother’s choice of starter, while I try glazed field mushrooms with goat’s cheese, black pepper and garlic served with tomato and basil bread. We decide against the pizza and pasta main courses on offer, keen to try the slow-roasted herb-stuffed belly of pork and honey-roast Goosnargh duck breast. Both dishes are faultless and disappear in record time, washed down with some reasonably-priced wine (from £4.65 a glass) recommended by our smiling waiter (another happy worker). While we take a break before wading in for dessert, our new friend puts aside a crème brulee for us, the popular sweet is running out fast and he doesn’t want us to miss out on his personal favourite. It proves to be as good as he promised, with my brother (a veritable crème brulee expert) declaring it the best he had ever tasted.

Coffee taken among the textured fabrics in the pub area finish off the meal and day perfectly. While the weather is mild on our visit, allowing me to enjoy the luxury of the sunshine on the terrace, I can imagine how homely the pub area becomes in winter. Craig paints me a picture: ‘The walkers come in and dry their boots out by the fire, families gather and warm up indoors and there is always a dog or two slumped on the floor.’Perhaps I should sample a winter weekend break too. But with weekends and Christmas already getting booked up, I'd better get in quick.

Travel Facts
The four-star Swan Hotel and Spa has rooms starting from £99 for bed and breakfast on a week night. Saturdays cost more (from £120 depending on the time of year) but two-night weekend offers are available from £199.

Two and three-night Christmas and New Year packages are still available from £240 per person including celebratory meals.